Saturday, November 8, 2008

Rishikesh back to Delhi 11/1/08

Our last leg of the journey was a long drive from Rishikesh back to Delhi. And this concludes my trip journal and the last of the pictures.

Rishikesh to Delhi

Auli to Rishikesh 10/31/08

I felt a bit like Gilligan, in that our 8 drive was more than 12. We spent a little extra time in Joshimath looking for beer to take with us and found three of the boys from the crew. And the road was less than 'roadly'. Needless to say we did not get to see the Aarti ceremony.

Auli to Rishikesh

Gailgargh to Auli 10/30/08

Gailgarh (11061') to Auli: I cannot tell you how high my heart rate went on this last day of walking. The view of Nanda Devi and the path along the edge both thrilled me, only in different ways.

Auli put us in ski resort. Sort of. Our much awaited hot showers had to wait for the water to be turned on. Our as much awaited beer was not really encouraged. We got both and it was worth it. It was also hard to believe that a trip that took forever to arrive, a walk that seemed to go on and on, was suddenly done. We now saw other people that weren't working or walking. We now had to ready for riding out from nowhere to somewhere.

Gailgargh to Auli

Kuari Pass 10/29/08

Today the wind was frantic, but the sky was clear. It's time to cross the Kuari Pass. Kuari = unmarried woman. There are actually two humps to the pass, hump 1 was at 11995' and hump 2 was at 12606'. Not as high as in the brochure. Whew!!

We walked along a ridge in the sun and wind. When we stopped for lunch we were able to get out of the wind and lounged in the sun like lizards until we got the Joom Joom from the boys to get going.

The last tent night was spent at Gailgargh. I had thought I would dream of beer and showers, except Bsim said we'd be walking along a cliff that the ponies could not go along. What do you mean the ponies can't go there? Ahhhhh!!!!!!! Not fair...

Kuari Pass

Diwali!

Today we go to Dakwani (10869') and tonight is Diwali! Dakwani is at 10869' and is the last camp before the pass.

Everyone that had bought fireworks laid them on the table at tea. The boys's eyes grew really wide at the sight of BOMBs. Yes, I think they really were bombs!

A great time was had by all when the boys sang what we think was a Diwali song followed by blowing things up. Then they set up an offering in the dinner tent complete with Laxmi.

Panarani to Dakwana

Jhenjipani to Panarani

Panarani was at 9008'

The toughest part was the dust on the trail, but once we camped at Pana it was worth the work for the view. This is the evening I get to learn about Conkers. The guys found chestnuts on the trail and collected the biggest ones they could find.

At tea they put cords through them and the idea is to conk your opponent's nut until it cracks. Funnier than heck to watch.

Fiona and I had our tents two levels below the obstacle course. It was a little gruesome to run in the dark because of the rocks that were hiding waiting to catch you up. The next morning I was a little wobbly on my tent exit and two little girls stopped to watch. Apparently I was so entertaining they had to sit down for the show, and didn't go until we did.

Jhenjipani to Panarani

Ghunni to Jhenjipani 10/26/08

Up and down to 7195' for the day. We saw Langur monkeys and waterfalls, were 'buzzed' by buzzards. Did they think we were going to make their day?

We were able to look across from the notch we walked through to see the Kuari Pass in the distance. It actually didn't look too bad from here.

The obstacle course for this stop involved hopping over a rock wall and monkeys watching from the trees.

Ghunni to Jhenjipani

Sateal to Ghunni 10/25/08

This was definitely up through the village across the river from where we had camped. Thankfully we had to break for people, animals, and the ponies. We walked through a number of villages on the way and saw amaranth fields growing and being harvested.

By this time more people of the cold.

We arrived at camp in good time, because the clouds closing in carried hailstones. Pretty large ones that I wouldn't have wanted to be pelted with them.

After the afternoon nap, I got up to wander around before dinner. Nigel and Jane were in the eating tent playing Pass the Pigs. Yeah! I had no idea they had gone international.

The obstacle course took us above the tents and over rocks. Not the worst, but a little danger involved...

Ghunni was 8018'.

Sateal to Ghunni

Kanol to Sateal (?) 10/24/08

Today we walked along the Nanda Kini river and saw many people living their lives. Which was amazing: women cut grass on hillsides that I cannot figure out how they are balancing on.

The camp was along the riverside, which meant vigourous washing of clothes and bodies. Then we went to town. Lynne bought a scarf from one of the vendors and cook found something called kerella. A green, spiky, vegetable with quite an interesting taste. We were to see it a lot after this, not to be joyful about.

The obstacle course was very easy on this stop!

At our evening pow wow, Bsim told us the next day was going to be all up. Yeah! Since we had descended to 5995' of course we had to go back up.

Kanol to Sateale

Bedni Bugyal to Kanol 10/23/08

This day we went back up the ridge to a high point of 13,465. Thanks to Nancy for talking to me the whole time we crossed the exposed ridge. Grins to Bsim who kept saying they were 'little ups', of course to those that are from Nepal... We walked 9.90 miles per the GPS from high up to down and down until we reached Kanol at 9,009 feet.

We got to camp to find it not quite ready. Apparently some of the ponies decided to detour and it took the guys time to find them and make it to camp.

The obstacle course involved walking through the pony herd.

Bedni Bugyal to Kanol

Bedni Bugyal 10/22/08

This is the day we were supposed to go to Roop Kund, but the snow issue and the distance made it clear that this wasn't going to happen. So our goal was the ridgeline.

The 'obstacle course' for this stop wasn't so bad. However, for two days I felt like a bag lady trying to wear almost everything I had with me to stay somewhat warm. I also felt like my companions were kleenex and alcohol hand cleaner. My goblet cells were in overdrive.

We had bed tea and breakfast and took off for the ridgeline. Lunch was at a 'y' in the trail. Today was to the right, tomorrow would be to the left. An amazing view was enjoyed by all, I believe. After lunch we took off again. The cloud cover was closing in at the top of Trisul, so when Fiona gave us the option for return I took it. Along with Nancy and Jane. Ming Temba went with us and I'm pretty sure he was coughing too. So I wasn't the only virus carrier in the camp. Although the scientific minded of us thought we should chart the progress of the virus through the camp.

Once back to the tents the weather definitely deteriorated. I stood and watched the shepherds bring in two fairly large flocks and waited for the others.

Bedni Bugyal

Wan to Bedni Bugyal 10/21/08

This is when we first get to find out what Bsim means by 'the trail is up up'. Because it was up, up to 11,656 feet to Bedni Bugyal. We walked up through amazingly large rhododendron forests. Yes, rhododendron forests. Where we were the rhododendron grow to the size of big pine trees here. I can only imagine what it looks like in the spring. This is also a hard day for me because I woke up with a head cold, and a dodgy tummy. Bed tea came at 0645 and Fiona was directly behind checking on us.

Walking along we come across a flock of sheep and goats and sit for a snack. I was watching the guys take particular interest in members of the flock, when it occurred to me they were picking out dinner. Indeed we had mutton two nights in a row.

Wan to Bedni Bugyal

Kausani to Wan 10/20/08

We had to leave our comfortable and warm beds to drive to Wan. The views of the mountains in the morning were spectacular since the clouds had cleared during the night. Fiona kept exhorting us to drink as much water as possible to be ready for the altitude that was coming.

Our driver took off down the 'road'. We saw tea terraces and trees that were scarred for gum harvesting.

At Lohojang (sp?) we moved to jeeps. Our jeep picked up everyone on the way and we kept getting just a little more cozy.

At Wan we got out and geared up to go to the tents and lunch. We made it to where lunch was supposed to be, in the rain, but found no tents. So we had some dal while Fiona and Bsim tried to figure out what happened. In the meantime a very smiley fellow appeared to tell us he was our 'horse member'. Eighth grade joking aside we were happy to see him because he knew where the tents were. Up!

In the waning light we walked to the ridgeline where our tents were set up waiting patiently for us. This is the first night that I found out the latrines were going to be a moving obstacle course. This night they were on the down side of the ridge line. One wrong move and it would have been a straight shot to the river far below. I actually had an easier time getting to them in the dark with my headlamp than I did the next morning with daylight. Go figure!

Kausani to Wan

Kathogodam to Kausani 10/19/08

We exited the train at Kathgodam to get into three vehicles to travel to Kausani. Along the way we had our first views of the Himalaya in the distance with Trisul (7120 m) and Nanda Ghungti (6310 m)being the most evident.

Kathgodam to Kausani

Delhi 10/18/08

I met Fiona (the trek leader) the day before. The group for the trek were:
Fiona
Darryl and Lynne
Hugh and Viv
John and Nancy (from France, but she's a native of Canada)
Nigel and Jane
Lance
Jerry
and me.

They all had a vast traveling experience and were a varied lot.
We went sightseeing in Delhi before heading to the train station. The train station and the night train to Kathgodam were interesting to say the least.
Delhi

Friday, November 7, 2008

Agra

The day in Agra started at 0800. Sanjay and Tarun picked me up to go to the Taj Mahal. I had wanted to go the evening earlier because of the full moon, however my impromptu eye infection and a rain storm precluded it. The good news is that 0800 is after the sunrise people and before the train from Delhi arrives, so I think I got some pretty good views of the Taj. We also went to the Agra Fort. Then drove back to Delhi.

Here are those pictures:

Agra to Delhi

The drive from Jaipur to Agra

I drove with Sanjay from Jaipur to Agra. On the way we stopped at Fatehpur Sikri and met Tarun. Tarun would be my guide to Fatehpur Sikri, the Taj Mahal, and the Agra Fort.

Here are the 77 pictures that go with this day.
Drive from Jaipur to Agra, Fatehpur Sikri

Jaipur Day 2

Here are the 123 pictures that go along with the day at the Amber Fort in Jaipur.

Jaipur Day 2

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Jaipur Day 1 pictures

The second day in India took me to Jaipur, if you click on the title above it will take you to the Wikipedia entry for Jaipur. It is the capital of Rajasthan, and was my favorite city of the ones I saw. While there were only 52 pictures for this day, it is more of an indication that I relaxed and watched people living their lives more than I hid behind the camera.

Hawa Mahal = is the palace of the winds. My guide says the big facade was how the harem moved around. Because they would have been in purdah, they needed to have airy walkways that still hid them from view. They would have been able to look down at the bazaar but not be seen.

Jantar Mantar = the observatory. My pictures did not do the justice to this place that I feel it deserves. The huge, hugely accurate, sundials were awesome. Everyone who has asked me what to see in Jaipur I have recommended that they spend time here.

Jaipur Day 1

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Pictures from Udaipur

There 121 pictures from Udaipur. The link above is for Wikipedia that does a great job of explaining the places that I went and what makes them spectacular.

Also, my rug from Jaipur arrived today. It is just as beautiful here as it was there.

Udaipur

About traveling to India

I left early in the morning of October 10 for India. Took a taxi to the airport, and as outlined earlier, spent the next 24 hours traveling around to the other side of the Earth.

Once I collected my trek bag from the carousel I headed out the front door of Indira Gandhi International airport. I was inundated by the noise and the heat almost immediately. Thankfully my trek bag made me stand out to the person sent to collect me, he whisked me away quite quickly. The first night out I stayed at the Florence Inn:

Since I was only going to be here for a couple of hours, the room was adequate. Everything was marbeled. I was to find out that this is de rigueur for the country fairly quickly. I repacked for my traveling so that all I carried was my backpack and left my trek bag in the care of the hotel until I returned to Delhi. This became cause for questions because the later hotels kept looking for more bags.

Travelogue beginning

I have voted and started laundry. I think I have squared my bills and I don't feel like crap today. I can't get to my work e-mail as yet, so I figure today will be a good time to start uploading pictures and posting an actual travelogue to go with them. In all I have almost 1,000 pictures and some movies on two cameras. That's without editing and down right deletion of some that I know will happen.

I did take two cameras with me: a Canon Powershot S5IS and an Olympus Stylus 1030SW. The Canon came out when I had time to set things up. The Olympus was either in my pocket or the waist belt of my back pack. The Canon has a powerful zoom, the Olympus has a better panoramic view and is a hardier camera. One thing I wish I would have thought of earlier is to change the dates and times on the cameras and GPS to India time. When I thought of it, it was too late. What I intend to do is split all of the pictures into their time and space batches and then write what happened on that day or at that time. I hope it is somewhat enjoyable to view, because it sure was enjoyable to do!

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Almost home

After 3 days of travel I am almost home. I can't begin to describe how much I want to take a shower and wear something that wasn't washed in a sink. Now if I could figure out how to continue getting bed tea...
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Saturday, November 1, 2008

Leaving India

I am now at the indira Gandhi International airport waiting for boarding in 90 minutes. Hard to believe that it is time to leave my new friends already and go home. Even though I've taken lots of pictures I don't think they will be nearly adequate to show what I've seen, heard, or learned. I'm glad I went ahead and came on this trip. See you all soon.
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Last day in India

We are traveling to Delhi. And its quite interesting being back with the noise and pollution. I fly out tonight to make the long journey back
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